9 Day Olympic Peninsula Road Trip

Written By Jessica Vanpoperinghe

9 Days in Washington Without Becoming a Vampire or Growing Moss (But It Was Close)

Washington State has always felt a little mysterious to me. Maybe it’s the Twilight influence. Maybe it’s the fog. Maybe it’s because everyone in the Pacific Northwest looks like they could start a band or forage for mushrooms at any moment.

Either way, this trip was a dream. I’d been wanting to explore the Olympic Peninsula, Mount Rainier, and all the moody little beach towns in between for years, and we finally did it. The result?
→ Bald eagles.
→ Waterfalls.
→ Several pierogi-induced awakenings.
→ And an alarming amount of mud.

This was one of those trips where everything felt epic, from the towering trees to the dramatic coastline to the fact that I somehow didn’t cry while hiking in the rain with a broken rain jacket. Growth. If you’re planning your own Washington adventure, here’s our exact 9-day itinerary, including hikes, hidden gems, Twilight nerd stops, and food recs.

*Want a less detailed, quick daily breakdown? Scroll all the way to the bottom of this page!

Day 1: Planes, Waterfalls & Ukrainian Dumpling Heaven

We flew into Seattle and made a beeline for Mount Rainier National Park, because apparently I like to introduce my legs to vacation by immediately confusing them. The drive was beautiful and weirdly emotional?? Rainier peeked out from behind the clouds like, “Sup, I’m your main character now.” That mountain is way bigger than I was prepared for. Like, you see it and suddenly understand why ancient people thought mountains were gods.

Hike: After the drive, we stretched our travel legs on the Carter and Madcap Falls Trail. This gentle 3-mile round trip trail through piney forest and mossy wonderland. It was peaceful, scenic, and had just enough uphill to remind me I haven’t worked out in a minute. The waterfall payoff at the end? Chef’s kiss.

Stay: We checked into Paradise Village, a super charming, family-owned lodge right near the park entrance. It had a cozy cabin vibe and was the perfect spot to crash after a travel day. But the real showstopper?

Dinner: This hotel has a Ukrainian restaurant on the property, and when I tell you these potato pierogis changed me on a cellular level?? Best I’ve ever had. It’s family-run, the vibes are warm and welcoming, and it low-key feels like you’re in a cozy Eastern European kitchen. If you stay here, do not skip dinner.

Day 2: Snowfields, Waterfalls & Pierogi Part II

We woke up early because we’d heard rumors of two-hour waits at the Mount Rainier entrance… and friends, the rumors are true. Get there early or prepare for some quality bonding time with your steering wheel. We were in the park by 8:00 AM and feeling smug about it.

Hike: Our original plan was to hike the Skyline Loop, but it was still closed due to snow (this was early July. Mount Rainier doesn’t care about your summer agenda). So we pivoted to Faraway Rock, which was actually the perfect plan B.

There was still snow on the trail, but nothing too wild. Just bring microspikes or prepare to penguin-waddle your way to the top. The views? Ridiculous. Glaciers, peaks, meadows, clouds doing moody things. Highly recommend.

⚠️ Pro tip: If you go later in the season when the snow melts, absolutely do Skyline instead (or do both!) Everyone says it’s life-changing and I believe them with my whole chest.

Quick Stop: After Faraway Rock, we drove over to Narada Falls, which was basically the easiest hike ever (a few minutes from the parking lot) with the drama of a full-on waterfall concert. It’s loud, misty, and makes you feel like you should be in a nature documentary narrated by David Attenborough.

Afternoon: We hit a few more viewpoints (because you cannot take a bad photo in this park) and stopped by the visitor center to poke around the exhibits and gift shop. We grabbed a quick lunch at their visitor center café. Nothing fancy, but solid park fuel.

Dinner: The Ukrainian Restaurant Again (Because Duh) Look, when a meal haunts your dreams, in a good way, you go back. Night two, same as night one: those potato pierogis, that family-run charm, and the best Kapusta Salad.

Day 3: Glacial Lakes, Bookstores & Peak Coastal Grandma Vibes

We packed up and left Mount Rainier in the rearview (still emotionally attached to those pierogis tho) and made our way northwest toward Port Angeles: the gateway to Olympic National Park and the kind of town that makes you want to buy a journal and start a side hustle making sea glass jewelry.

Stay: We checked into the Red Lion Hotel, which was comfy, clean, and right on the water. Great location, easy parking, and walking distance to restaurants and shops.

Hike: Next up: Lake Crescent, which has water so blue it looks fake. We hiked the Spruce Railroad Trail to Devil’s Punchbowl. We saw a few brave souls jumping in (???) but the water is snowmelt cold, so we respectfully watched from the sidelines.

Evening: After the hike, we headed back to Port Angeles and wandered around downtown. It’s got that small-town artsy vibe with lots of gift shops, secondhand bookstores, and people who look like they write poetry in tidepools Don’t miss Moss Port Angeles! It’s the cutest shop ever.

Day 4: Whales, Wild Views & a Twilight Pilgrimage

Morning: We kicked things off with one of the most magical activities of the trip: a whale watching tour with Puget Sound Express, and yes, I cried a little. The crew was amazing, the views were unreal, and we got lucky with a humpback sighting plus tons of seals doing their blubbery little sea dances. There’s something deeply humbling about being in the presence of a literal ocean giant and also realizing that seals kind of look like wet dogs who majored in drama.

Lunch: After the tour, we had lunch right on the pier at Fish & Crab Shack. The fish and chips? Stupid good. Crispy, flaky, salty, perfect. Highly recommend grabbing a table outside and soaking in the salty air + smug satisfaction of having just seen a WHALE.

Hike: Next, we drove out to Hurricane Ridge to hike Hurricane Hill, which might sound aggressive but was actually super doable if you’re ready for a steady incline and high-elevation sun. 3.2 miles roundtrip, paved most of the way (great for accessibility), constant views the whole time. We saw deer, marmots, and a couple squirrels who clearly had main character syndrome. Bring lots of water and sun protection, it gets HOT up there and there isn’t much shade.

Dinner: To wrap the day, we had dinner at Bella Italia, aka the restaurant where Bella and Edward had their first date in Twilight. Yes, I absolutely pretended I was an awkward teen with a vampire boyfriend. And the food? Actually really good! Twilight clout AND delicious pasta? We love to see it.

Day 5: Vegan Pastries, Waterfall Trifecta & the Great Jacket Betrayal

We started the day strong with a small miracle at New Day Eatery, a cozy breakfast spot with a wild pastry selection. Half of them are vegan, and all of them looked like they belonged in a very aesthetic bakery-themed rom-com. I had to physically restrain myself from ordering one of everything.

Hikes: We had a whole itinerary of waterfall hikes planned, and by god, we stuck to it… even though it rained on us literally all day. Shoutout to my rain jacket, which picked this exact moment to stop being waterproof. I was cold. I was wet. I was emotionally unraveling. Still, the views were worth it.

  • Madison Falls: A super quick walk from the parking lot to a stunning little cascade. Great for when you're still chewing on a croissant and not ready for cardio.

  • Marymere Falls: A beautiful forested trail with a bridge, stairs, and a 90-foot waterfall at the end.

  • Sol Duc Falls: This one felt like hiking through a fantasy novel. Moss everywhere. Fog. Dramatic water crashing into a canyon. 10/10, would get soggy again for this.

Afternoon: We ended the day exploring the tide pools at Salt Creek Recreation Area, which is one of the most underrated coastal stops in the area. Even in the rain, the tide pools were full of color and life. Sea stars, anemones, tiny scuttling things that made me say “what ARE you??” at least six times.

Pro tip: wear good shoes with lots of grip, and check the tide schedule so you don’t end up soaked and stranded.

Day 6: Mossy Trails, Forks Fan-Girling, & Twilight Takeout

We said goodbye to Port Angeles and hit the road toward one of the most iconic (and otherworldly) corners of Olympic National Park: the Hoh Rainforest. If you’ve ever wanted to feel like you stepped into a fairytale, this is the place.

Hikes: We did 2 short trails back-to-back and WOW. Everything was green. Like, aggressively green.

  • Hall of Mosses was giving full druid fantasy. Hanging moss, ancient trees, spooky forest silence.

  • Spruce Nature Trail followed the river and had some sweet little wildlife sightings a wildly peaceful vibe.

It was misty, moody, and felt like the perfect place to run into a mysterious stranger with golden eyes and an inexplicable thirst for blood.

Afternoon: We checked into our Vrbo in Forks (Yes. THAT Forks), and the moment we rolled into town, I felt like I had entered a time capsule where it’s always 2008 and everyone’s slightly worried about Victoria.
Forks goes hard for Twilight. You’ll find:

  • Treaty Line signs

  • Bella’s Red pickup truck

  • “Dr. Carlisle Cullen’s” parking spot at the hospital

  • Random cardboard Edwards hiding in corners

  • And best of all: The Twilight Museum & Gift Shop which is absolutely unhinged in the best way. Props, costumes, merch, and enough fanfic energy to knock you off your feet. I was obsessed.

Evening: Forks isn’t exactly a foodie hotspot, so we embraced the cozy night-in energy with some solid Chinese takeout and, obviously, Twilight playing in the background.

Day 7: Tide Pools, Mud Legs, & A Literal Bald Eagle Parade

Day 7 was my favorite day of the entire trip! Epic coastline views, magical tide pools, dramatic rock formations, and… a lot of mud. Like, spiritual-level mud.

But first, some logistics: 🚨 You NEED a Makah Recreation Pass to hike to Shi Shi Beach, which can be purchased in Neah Bay at the Mini Mart, Marina or Museum. It costs $20 and is good for the calendar year. 🚨 We drove through drive through the reservation first thing in the morning and grabbed our pass before heading to the trailhead. DO NOT skip this step!

Hike: Shi Shi Beach is a long one, 8.8 miles roundtrip, but 1000% worth it. The first ~2.2 miles are through the forest, and it’s… let’s just say moist. The trail was super muddy, so wear boots you’re emotionally detached from. But THEN you break out of the woods and step onto this jaw-dropping stretch of coastline.

IMPORTANT: Go at low tide! Check the tide chart beforehand so you can actually walk out onto the rock formations and explore the pools. It’s wild out there, literally. But be careful where you step and try not to squish anything. Tide pool creatures are tiny, ancient, and just trying to vibe. There was hardly anyone else out there, which made it feel even more surreal. Like we stumbled into a secret part of Earth that forgot to get on Instagram.

Afternoon: After a lunch of snacks in our rental car, drove to Cape Flattery, the northwestern-most point in the continental U.S. The Cape Flattery Trail is short, easy, and ends with jaw-dropping views of rugged sea cliffs and teal-blue water churning below.

Day 8: Waterfalls, Famous Trees, & A Hole-in-the-Wall

Our Olympic adventure was winding down, but we had a few final icons to check off our list.


Morning: We drove out to Beaver Falls, which feels like the type of place a forest spirit might try to hand you a quest. It’s a short, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it trail just off the side of the road, but the waterfall is stunning! Tucked away, peaceful, and perfect for a quick little nature hit without the full sweat session.

Hike: Rialto Beach is gorgeous, but full disclosure, it’s one of the most popular beaches in Olympic, so expect crowds and a parking lot that tests your patience and parallel parking skills. But once you’re on the beach? Dreamy AF. Driftwood everywhere, massive sea stacks, and that moody PNW lighting that makes you feel like you're in a Lana Del Rey song. Make sure you check the tides and time your visit around low tide so you can walk right through the hole-in-the-wall sea stack and explore tide pools.


Afternoon: We went full forest nerd and visited:

  • The Tree of Life, a giant tree that is somehow suspended over a washed-out cave with its roots totally exposed and just… hanging on. It’s unsettling and magical and I relate to it deeply. Careful though! It’s estimated that the tree might collapse at some point within the next year as the cliffs on either side continue eroding.

  • The World’s Largest Sitka Spruce Tree, which is 191 feet tall, nearly 60 feet around, and feels like it’s probably seen some things. Definitely worth a quick stop to gasp at nature’s audacity.

Evening: We kept things low-key that night. Relaxed, packed up, and reflected on the fact that we had been in every single ecosystem imaginable over the last 8 days.

Day 9: Coffee, Cute Shops & The Road Home

We said a tearful goodbye to the coast (okay fine, I was the only one crying) and hit the road back to Seattle. But before the final airport send-off, we made one last stop in Olympia.

We grabbed lunch in town and stopped by Ember Goods (a super cute coffee shop) After fueling up, we finished the drive to Seattle, returned the rental car (RIP mud-caked floor mats), and flew home with full hearts, sore legs, and an alarming number of waterfall photos.

Washington, you were a wild, soggy, unforgettable dream.

Oh, and here are some extra Forks photos for funsies:

✨ Final Thoughts

Washington, you absolute stunner. In 9 days, I hiked through a rainforest, stood on dramatic sea cliffs, saw whales, got soaked in 3 types of precipitation, and stared directly into the eyes of a bald eagle like we were sharing a secret. Would I do it all again? Absolutely. Would I bring a functional rain jacket next time? Also yes.

If you’re short on time, you could condense this itinerary into 7 days and still hit most of the major highlights, but just know it’ll be go-go-go and you might cry in a parking lot somewhere around Day 5. I personally loved that we built in plenty of afternoon and evening downtime. That slower pace gave us space to nap, recharge, wander gift shops, and enjoy being present without rushing to the next thing.

What I Packed for Washington

Here’s everything I brought with me to the Olympic Peninsula. Trail-tested and anxiety-hike-certified:

👕 Tops:

🥾 Bottoms:

👟 Footwear:

🎒 Misc:

How much did we spend in total?

This was a 9-day trip with 3 people, flying from Denver in early July.

✈️ Flights: ~$240 round trip per person (Denver → Seattle)

🚗 Car Rental: ~$1000 total (10 days)

🛏️ Accommodations: Around $1,500 total (mix of hotels & Airbnbs)

🍽️ Food & Drinks: ~$400 per person (we ate out often but also had some cozy nights in with takeout)

🎟️ Park Passes: Mount Rainier & Olympic NP Pass: $30 each (or free with an America the Beautiful pass)

🅿️ Makah Reservation Permit (for Shi Shi Beach): $20 

🐋 Whale Watching Tour: $135 per person

🧙‍♀️ Extras: A Twilight museum shirt, way too many mugs, and a candle I pretended was a tax write-off, = ~$100 of unplanned joy

💰 TOTAL: ~$1,600–2,000 per person

Best time to visit

🌲 The sweet spot? Mid-June through early September. Trails are mostly snow-free, the waterfalls are poppin’, and there’s a solid chance you’ll see bald eagles while eating a sandwich. We went in early July and it was chef’s kiss: sunny most days, rainy on some (because duh, rainforest), and cool enough to hike without overheating.

Avoid winter/early spring unless you’re prepared for trail closures, snow, and soggy everything.

Things you should know

🚘 Get to the parks early.
Some entrance stations (especially Mount Rainier) get 2+ hour waits by late morning. We arrived around 8AM and breezed in. Be the early bird. Skip the traffic spiral.

🥾 You will encounter mud.
Especially around Shi Shi Beach and Sol Duc. Bring microspikes if snow’s still hanging around, and don’t wear boots you’re emotionally attached to.

📶 Download all your trail maps.
There is no service in most parts of the Olympic Peninsula. Use AllTrails offline, pre-save maps, and maybe leave a note to your future self like: “If lost, follow the moss.”

🧻 Bathrooms are scarce.
Lots of trailheads have none. Visitor centers = jackpot. Pack wipes and channel your inner forest goblin respectfully.

☔ Don’t trust your rain jacket.
Mine betrayed me mid-hike. Bring a backup or waterproof it beforehand. It’s the PNW. Rain is the main character.

🧛 Yes, we went to Forks.
Yes, it ruled. If you’re a Twilight fan, it’s an absolute fever dream. If you’re not, you’ll still enjoy the weirdly committed energy of this tiny vampire-obsessed town.

SUMMARY

DAY 1

DAY 2

  • Hiked Faraway Rock (Skyline Trail was closed due to snow)

  • Visited Narada Falls

  • Stopped by scenic viewpoints

  • Lunch at the Visitor Center café

  • Dinner at the Paradise Village restaurant again (obviously)

DAY 3

DAY 4

DAY 5

DAY 6

DAY 7

  • Drove to the Makah Indian Reservation to get parking permit for Shi Shi Beach

  • Hiked Shi Shi Beach (8.8 miles, muddy, STUNNING—go at low tide)

  • Drove to Cape Flattery & walked the Cape Flattery Trail

DAY 8

DAY 9

  • Drove back to Seattle

  • Stopped in Olympia for lunch

  • Grabbed coffee & browsed cute local goods at Ember Goods

  • Flight home ✈️

hope this helped plan your WAshington trip!

Chasing views, dodging panic attacks, and thriving anyway - Jessy

Jessica Vanpoperinghe
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